I did this install last weekend. It took me 8 hours on day one and six hours on day two. You can blame at least half of that time on it being the first time I did it and being a perfectionist. I didn't like the way it ended up on day one, so I re-did some of it on day two. Thanks to padavos for figuring out how to wire it up and making that part easy. Here are a couple of things to note.
1. If you buy the license plate style camera (which I did), it gets in the way of the latch that opens the tailgate. I've been thinking about mounting it at the bottom of the license plate, but in order to make the wiring look clean, I would have to install it upside down. Not sure if it will somehow compensate the video to go the other way, or if it would show the video upside down. Wondering if I reverse the polarity on the camera signal wires, what would that do to the video that displays on the screen?
2. The hardest part of the whole job is getting the wiring from the outside of the car to the reverse light. It took me two hours just to open up all the panels on the tailgate so I could work in there. The reason was that in order to remove the panel on the outside of the tailgate that has the chevy bowtie logo on it, you have to remove the windshield wiper arm. Mine was stuck. Two hours later, I had it off. At that point, I had access and visibility to both the inside and the outside channels on the tailgate.
3. There is a channel along the perimeter of the tailgate between the glass and the sheet metal. You can snake the wiring through there (behind the defroster plug) and through the rubber boot that has the car's other wiring going through it. That gets you into the rear driver side light compartment. That sounds simple, but that was about the hardest thing to do. You can pull back the plastic paneling on the inside of the car by removing a couple of fasteners. Once in there, connecting up to the reverse light is pretty simple, although it took me a while to figure out which wires I had to tap into. I forget how I did it, and the picture I took wasn't very clear, so I can't tell you which wires it was.
4. Snaking the wiring up to the front is pretty easy. There is some plastic paneling along the door sill that is relatively easy to pull up. There is a channel underneath that carries the car's other wiring. You don't have to pull the paneling all the way off to get it through there. It helps to have a snaking tool to pull the wire through.
5. At the front, the hardest part is working with the little tiny blue wire you have to cut. Don't make a mistake here, cause you'll run out of extra wire very quickly. The wire is smaller than 22 gauge, making most wire strippers useless. I had to strip the wire by hand, and messed up a couple of times. In the end, I barely got it to connect.
6. Day two for me was mostly the result of initially using a wireless module for the video. The first day, I did all of the above and only wired the power to the reverse light, but the video was wireless. I was unhappy with how glitchy the wireless signal was, so on day two, I removed the wireless module and hard wired the video signal. My advice, skip the wireless option. Unless you want your camera to be on all the time, you still need to get the power signal from the reverse light. Snaking the wires to the reverse light is the hardest part of the whole job, but not much harder to do two wires, versus one. Spare yourself the re-do, and just hard wire the video too.
7. One final note. I drilled a hole to get the wiring from the outside of the car to the inside. I couldn't figure out a way to do it without drilling. If anyone has come up with a solution, please post.