Homelink installation

Not a difficult install. Kit is from Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5II6GK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

Install is here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.894618863954091&type=1

I'm considering installing this in my 2015 Spark EV. In the picture of the kit on the Amazon page it shows a wiring loom and and second module. Did your installation have this second module? Your Facebook picture essay (very well done BTW) makes it look like it is one complete unit that just snaps into the headliner.

Thank you,
Alex

And here's the $15 universal keychain-sized garage-opener option: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q5VKJE

Comes with shown slide-in mount that sits nicely in the back end of the center console, and works with my Genie Homelink garage-door opener. It does not open the door as quickly as the cigarette-pack-sized 9-volt remotes that came with the opener 20 years ago - it takes a couple of seconds, but range seems as good as the original.

And for a little more ($35) here's a slightly smaller remote at Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B018IQ9I2I It even resembles the Spark climate control buttons.
This one operates the door immediately, but only works with openers that learn.

The second garage opener has been working well for me. I used some Blu-Tack (removable) to stick it at the front end of the aft center console hole, where it is handy but not visible from outside the car.

sTeeve said:

Not a difficult install. Kit is from Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5II6GK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

Install is here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.894618863954091&type=1

Click to expand...

Hi, new here, and recent owner of a used Spark.

I know this is an old thread, but I am trying to install a Homelink, and given your Facebook installation link appear to no longer be valid, I have the following questions.

My Spark sleeps outside, so I need the Homelink to only be powered when the car is switched ON, so I need a 12 V Switched power source.
Was your install based on a switched 12 volt power source, or a permanent one?

In the head console, the Light is on a permanent 12 Volt so no good.
The OnStar Harness only has a 10V Switched, Question: Would the Homelink work on 10V ?

There is a harness going to the block behind the mirror, but I have not tried to pry that open to access the harness connector to measure (Has anyone done that, is it an easy task?)

Any information or advice on where to place the Homelink to have easy access to a 12 volt switched power source is welcome.
Thanks again

scrambler said:

sTeeve said:

Not a difficult install. Kit is from Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5II6GK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00)

Install is here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.894618863954091&type=1

Click to expand...

Hi, new here, and recent owner of a used Spark.

I know this is an old thread, but I am trying to install a Homelink, and given your Facebook installation link appear to no longer be valid, I have the following questions.

My Spark sleeps outside, so I need the Homelink to only be powered when the car is switched ON, so I need a 12 V Switched power source.
Was your install based on a switched 12 volt power source, or a permanent one?

In the head console, the Light is on a permanent 12 Volt so no good.
The OnStar Harness only has a 10V Switched, Question: Would the Homelink work on 10V ?

There is a harness going to the block behind the mirror, but I have not tried to pry that open to access the harness connector to measure (Has anyone done that, is it an easy task?)

Any information or advice on where to place the Homelink to have easy access to a 12 volt switched power source is welcome.
Thanks again

Click to expand...

The FB page is now private. You can join us and get access to the writeup. Search for "Southeast U.S. Chevy Spark EV Owners / Fans".

-Bob K.

Thanks but I am not on Facebook

Would you be so kind as to let me know if your install used Switched 12V (Only hot on ignition), and if so where you took it?

Thanks again

scrambler said:

Thanks but I am not on Facebook

Would you be so kind as to let me know if your install used Switched 12V (Only hot on ignition), and if so where you took it?

Thanks again

Click to expand...

"We need three electrical connections: power, ground and illumination. Power and ground come from the dome light (GY for power, BK for ground; illumination from the OnStar unit (GN/BK). This is where the Service Manual comes in handy...and a 12V test light. The Homelink kit comes with all necessary hardware, including three Posi-Taps for the electrical connections."

Thank you, appreciate you taking the time.

Unfortunately, if you are taking the power on the dome light (which is what I did test first), then it is also ON when the car is turned off.
This means that the Homelink will work even if the car is not turned on, which is a security risk for me as the car sleeps in my driveway (someone could break in the car and open the home).

I was trying to find a 12V that would only be on when the car is switched on.

I need to see if I can open the back box behind the mirror so I can test the wires of the harness going in there.

Thanks again for your help

I installed a homelink autodimming mirror. Ran the wires down the a-pillar on the passenger side, behind the glove box, and to the power outlet on the lower dash by the USB. The mirror and homelink only work with the "accessory" function from the power outlet using a T-Tap. There is a ground lug behind there too. Very simple install.

Thanks,
Going through the A pillar was what I was trying to avoid
Did you remove the A pillar cover? how easy was that without damaging anything? Is there an airbag in that pillar?
Thanks

It's very easy to remove. Make sure the vehicle is at room temperature or close, cold climates can break clips. At the very top of the A-Pillar, grab it at the headliner and get your finger behind the trim. Pull sharply to dislodge the A-pillar retention tether. This tether prevents the trim from flying into the passenger compartment if the curtain airbag deploys. The tether is plastic and has about a 2-3" length holding it to the metal pillar. Do not try to dislodge the tether clip from the vehicle. If you do, you'll have to replace it. To remove the A-pillar trim from the tether, just make sure the second, smaller non-tether clip on the trim is dislodged from the a-pillar. Next, get your fingers behind the a-pillar trim and slide the tether off the a-pillar trim. It's a hook and you'll see it. Pull the a-pillar from the dash. There are some retention fingers at the base of the a-pillar trim that lock into the dash. When you reinstall the A-pillar trim, make sure you place the hooks into the dash, then slide the tether back into the a-pillar trim line the trim up and just snap it back into place.

You can remove the glove box easily to get behind the dash and then the easiest way to get to all the wiring is to remove the center console. It's easy. At the front of the console on each side (driver and passenger footwell) is a screw. Remove those (two total). At the rear cup holder, remove the rubber cup holder insert and the screw under it. The parking brake switch and sport button need to be disconnected. The easiest thing to do is lift the rear of the center console, reach under and disconnect the rear power outlet, then get your hand under the console and push the brake switch and sport button up and out. Disconnect the two connectors and pull the console out. That's it. You can now see the wires to the front power outlet. Use both the ground and power wire or just the power wire and one of the ground bolts on the floor.

scrambler said:

Thanks,
Going through the A pillar was what I was trying to avoid
Did you remove the A pillar cover? how easy was that without damaging anything? Is there an airbag in that pillar?
Thanks

Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to explain.
This is way more dismantling that I am really prepared to do for this homelink

Just for information, I wonder why you went through the passenger side, instead of going on the driver side directly to the fuse box on the left.
It seems like a simpler path if willing to mess with the A pillar Airbag area.

Inspired by this thread, I also just bought a "used" Homelink mirror off Ebay. I went ahead and wired it up to the constant 12V lead off the dome light, and the auto-dim works great. However, I've been unable to program the Homelink buttons. I believe this is due to my recent upgrade to a newer Chamberlain garage door opener that is belt driven and controllable with the MyQ gateway. After researching online, I went ahead and ordered the Chamberlain Homelink Compatibility Bridge and hope this will allow me to program it.

Will update with whatever happens.

Got the repeater yesterday and was able to program the Homelink mirror. Works great now!

I went with the passenger side because I knew tapping into the 12v accessory outlet was a sure thing and the ground was right there. Plus I wanted it all hidden so when I turn my lease in, I'm not having some inspector looking at the fuse box with a few wires hanging out of it. Personally, it was easier for me. Either side works and is just up to you where you want to wire it.

scrambler said:

Thanks for taking the time to explain.
This is way more dismantling that I am really prepared to do for this homelink

Just for information, I wonder why you went through the passenger side, instead of going on the driver side directly to the fuse box on the left.
It seems like a simpler path if willing to mess with the A pillar Airbag area.

Click to expand...

Not sure if tapping the USB and going up through the A-Pillar is worth it. I mean, you do know the mirror is switched when you tap its yellow illum wire to a switched wire (i.e. the GN/BL wire on the Onstar unit that sTeeve pointed out). So the homelink (garage door opener) button already only works when the car is on.

zzzzzzzz said:

I mean, you do know the mirror is switched when you tap its yellow illum wire to a switched wire (i.e. the GN/BL wire on the Onstar unit that sTeeve pointed out). So the homelink (garage door opener) button already only works when the car is on.

Click to expand...

No I dont know I have been looking for info on wires in the harness that goes to the black box under the mirror.
Are you speaking of the wire in the harness that goes to the OnStar buttons, or wire in the harness that goes in the black box behind the mirror.

Because I tested all the wires going to the OnStar buttons, and none gave me 12V.

I would appreciate if you could elaborate

Homelink's illum (yellow or white) wire tapped to the GN/BL wire on what I assume is to the OnStar button assembly right next to the dome light (as in sTeeve's picture). And then tap the Homelink's red and black to the dome light wires. Just follow exactly that and it'll work as intended; ON/OFF capable only when the car is on. Try it!