Code P1F0B: The Battery is not performing as expected

My "service vehicle soon" light went on in my new, used Spark EV. I hit the blue onstar button, and after signing up for the 3 year basic plan, talked to someone who emailed me the diagnostic information:

Through your recent On-Demand Diagnostic, OnStar detected an issue with Not charging properly with your 2014 Chevrolet Spark EV.

The code(s) and explanation(s) associated with this issue is/are:

P1F0B The Lithium-Ion Battery is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Battery Conditioning System which provides heating and cooling for the battery pack on your electric vehicle to ensure efficient operating conditions.

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I didn't find any information on the web about this code. Perhaps someone else has seen it before. I'll be calling the dealer.

Does your Cabin AC work ok? Have you checked that none of the coolant reservoirs under the hood are low? Finally, can you check the 12V battery under the hood for proper voltage? These cars do weird things when the 12V battery gets old.

CCIE said:

Does your Cabin AC work ok? Have you checked that none of the coolant reservoirs under the hood are low? Finally, can you check the 12V battery under the hood for proper voltage? These cars do weird things when the 12V battery gets old.

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I second the bolded. Twice. And if you do need (and get) a new 12V battery, spend the $30-$50 to get a decent battery maintainer (to make sure that your 12V battery is fully charged at least once a week - plug it in when you get home, and unplug 12 hours later when you drive off, once a week).

I use this one : http://smartercharger.com/battery-chargers/#CTEK US 0.8

Although they call it a 'charger', it would take days (and probably time out) if it was needed to charge most auto batteries that were less than 50% full. It is *really* a maintainer. It is a super-slow trickle charger (0.8A) with all the built-in bells and whistles. I used a voltmeter to check on charging behavior, and it is safe for AGM (absorbed glass mat) as I never saw the voltage go over 14.4V in ANY of the 6 charge modes. (The Battery Tender I had *did* go over 14.6V, which is fine for flooded lead-acid batteries.) I use a standard 15A "smart" charger if a battery is low and really needs charging, and the CTEK is simply used to gently and safely top-off (fully saturate charge) the battery. I also use it on my ICE (which is parked and not run 26-29 days of the month). Since it has a "maintain" mode (and is pretty much fully sealed, although not safe to dunk) it is useful to maintain charge on rarely used vehicles or vehicles/batteries in very low temp winter areas. There are several good ones on the market - I got this one because it is AGM-safe (and has not only "de-sulfation" "bulk", and "absorption" basic charge modes, but also "float", and "pulse/check" modes, so I can leave it plugged in for days)

I started doing this because the earlier LEAF model years could be absolutely horrible on 12V batteries - some couldn't keep the 12V battery charged up, and had to be replaced every 12-30 months (it depended on drive and charging habits, and piss-poor software logic for maintaining the charge on the 12V battery).

badmechanic said:

My "service vehicle soon" light went on in my new, used Spark EV. I hit the blue onstar button, and after signing up for the 3 year basic plan, talked to someone who emailed me the diagnostic information:

Through your recent On-Demand Diagnostic, OnStar detected an issue with Not charging properly with your 2014 Chevrolet Spark EV.

The code(s) and explanation(s) associated with this issue is/are:

P1F0B The Lithium-Ion Battery is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Battery Conditioning System which provides heating and cooling for the battery pack on your electric vehicle to ensure efficient operating conditions.

Click to expand...

I didn't find any information on the web about this code. Perhaps someone else has seen it before. I'll be calling the dealer.

Click to expand...

Interesting timing on seeing this post. Mine just went in to the dealer with the following codes (per Onstar) which have something to do with failure of the LiIon Battery apparently:

P1EFB
P0D26
P0D22

The original symptom was failure to be able to charge, then check engine light but no other issues. Dealer called and said they have engaged GM engineering to help diagnose so will see what happens next. Car is a 2015 2LT with DCFC with 14,500 miles.

Arktctr said:

badmechanic said:

My "service vehicle soon" light went on in my new, used Spark EV. I hit the blue onstar button, and after signing up for the 3 year basic plan, talked to someone who emailed me the diagnostic information:

Through your recent On-Demand Diagnostic, OnStar detected an issue with Not charging properly with your 2014 Chevrolet Spark EV.

The code(s) and explanation(s) associated with this issue is/are:

P1F0B The Lithium-Ion Battery is not performing as expected. An issue has been detected in the Battery Conditioning System which provides heating and cooling for the battery pack on your electric vehicle to ensure efficient operating conditions.

Click to expand...

I didn't find any information on the web about this code. Perhaps someone else has seen it before. I'll be calling the dealer.

Click to expand...

Interesting timing on seeing this post. Mine just went in to the dealer with the following codes (per Onstar) which have something to do with failure of the LiIon Battery apparently:

P1EFB
P0D26
P0D22

The original symptom was failure to be able to charge, then check engine light but no other issues. Dealer called and said they have engaged GM engineering to help diagnose so will see what happens next. Car is a 2015 2LT with DCFC with 14,500 miles.

Click to expand...

With the car turned off, did you check the voltage across the 12V battery? I would turn off the car, wait 30 minutes or more and measure the voltage. If it is around 11.5 volts - 11.8v, you might want to consider having your charging circuit checked or replacing the battery.

For reference: Today, my 2014 Spark EV battery measured 12.33 volts after being driven about 25 miles yesterday and sitting all night in my garage. My 2015 Spark EV measured 12.53 volts immediately after an all night L2 charge. Even with full voltage present, this type of battery can develop an internal failure and just die. I had it happen on a 12 volt AGM battery I was using to power a 120 VAC inverter for my my wife's CPAP machine while we were camping. I used a solar panel and controller to recharge the battery during the day.

Regardless, I am going to start watching my battery voltage for both cars.

MrDRMorgan said:

With the car turned off, did you check the voltage across the 12V battery? I would turn off the car, wait 30 minutes or more and measure the voltage. If it is around 11.5 volts - 11.8v, you might want to consider having your charging circuit checked or replacing the battery.

For reference: Today, my 2014 Spark EV battery measured 12.33 volts after being driven about 25 miles yesterday and sitting all night in my garage. My 2015 Spark EV measured 12.53 volts immediately after an all night L2 charge. Even with full voltage present, this type of battery can develop an internal failure and just die. I had it happen on a 12 volt AGM battery I was using to power a 120 VAC inverter for my my wife's CPAP machine while we were camping. I used a solar panel and controller to recharge the battery during the day.

Regardless, I am going to start watching my battery voltage for both cars.

Click to expand...

A 'fully charged' 12V lead-acid battery *should* read around 12.65-12.7V (with NO load).

Measuring the voltage after an all-night charge should have been higher than 12.53 volts if there was no load (the 12V battery is charged while the 'traction' {lithium ion} battery is being charged. When plugged in and NOT charging the Li battery, I don't believe that the 12V battery is being charged - but I could be wrong). I measured the voltage across the battery terminals at different usage scenarios (car on 'ready to drive', during L2 charge, during DCFC charge) but I seem to have lost the paper I scribbled the info on. I seem to recall that 13.6V was the voltage (I didn't measure the amperage) but I can't swear to it (13.6V is low, IMO, for a charge if the battery needs a real charge - it's fine as a 'float' if the battery is close to full).

Since doing many things (such as opening the driver's door) will 'activate' the computer and/or the LED display(s) and thus increase the drain on the 'accessory' (12V) battery, it is recommended to pop the hood latch before getting out (and letting it sit for 30 mins) before measuring the voltage. That allows you to raise the hood and measure the voltage without the increased load/drain, and after the battery rests.

I have a smart 'battery maintainer' that I use about once every 7-14 days to make sure that the 12V gets a full charge on a regular basis (to reduce incidence of sulfation).

I don't have any voltage testing equipment so nothing was tested on my end. All I know is it refused to take charge, OnStar quoted multiple errors so I brought it into the dealer. The dealer advised me yesterday they had opened up a case with GM Engineering. As of today, they have identified a faulty module (I can reveal actual one once I pick car back up) which is on order and due to arrive Monday. Assuming this takes care of things I will consider this a minor event given I've had only a couple of minor issues in the 26 months of ownership with this one. Will circle back and post final outcome once its all complete.

SparkE said:

MrDRMorgan said:

With the car turned off, did you check the voltage across the 12V battery? I would turn off the car, wait 30 minutes or more and measure the voltage. If it is around 11.5 volts - 11.8v, you might want to consider having your charging circuit checked or replacing the battery.

For reference: Today, my 2014 Spark EV battery measured 12.33 volts after being driven about 25 miles yesterday and sitting all night in my garage. My 2015 Spark EV measured 12.53 volts immediately after an all night L2 charge. Even with full voltage present, this type of battery can develop an internal failure and just die. I had it happen on a 12 volt AGM battery I was using to power a 120 VAC inverter for my my wife's CPAP machine while we were camping. I used a solar panel and controller to recharge the battery during the day.

Regardless, I am going to start watching my battery voltage for both cars.

Click to expand...

A 'fully charged' 12V lead-acid battery *should* read around 12.65-12.7V (with NO load).

Measuring the voltage after an all-night charge should have been higher than 12.53 volts if there was no load (the 12V battery is charged while the 'traction' {lithium ion} battery is being charged. When plugged in and NOT charging the Li battery, I don't believe that the 12V battery is being charged - but I could be wrong). I measured the voltage across the battery terminals at different usage scenarios (car on 'ready to drive', during L2 charge, during DCFC charge) but I seem to have lost the paper I scribbled the info on. I seem to recall that 13.6V was the voltage (I didn't measure the amperage) but I can't swear to it (13.6V is low, IMO, for a charge if the battery needs a real charge - it's fine as a 'float' if the battery is close to full).

Since doing many things (such as opening the driver's door) will 'activate' the computer and/or the LED display(s) and thus increase the drain on the 'accessory' (12V) battery, it is recommended to pop the hood latch before getting out (and letting it sit for 30 mins) before measuring the voltage. That allows you to raise the hood and measure the voltage without the increased load/drain, and after the battery rests.

I have a smart 'battery maintainer' that I use about once every 7-14 days to make sure that the 12V gets a full charge on a regular basis (to reduce incidence of sulfation).

Click to expand...

Good point. I did open the driver's door just prior to lifting the hood and taking the reading.

If one would like the 12V battery in an EV to last 8-12 years (instead of 2-4), I highly recommend a smart 'battery maintainer' to make sure that your battery is FULLY charged several times a month.

I had a case of sticker shock when I went to replace a friend's 12V battery recently (he left his car with me while he was away on vacation, and it died). The battery was $135!!! (And I checked 5 different places - it wasn't just one expensive place - $135 was the least expensive!) Batteries have gone up by about $40-50 over the past 4-5 years, and doubled in the last 10 years (the last three times I bought a new battery). Since a decent 'maintainer' is $30-$50 (and can be used on ALL your vehicles) it's a pretty good investment. Not to mention 'more green' (if your battery lasts 8 years instead of 4-5, you've about halved the 'waste' that has to be recycled, and shipped, and ...)

ICE vehicles that are regularly driven 20-30 minutes at a time at least twice a week (and for an hour or more once a month) generally don't have much of a battery problem - they get pretty close to fully charged. Driving mostly in the city, for < 10 minutes at a time, and/or sitting for long periods - that will do in a battery in a few short years (via sulfation). Driving an EV a 'moderate distance' daily (enough to require 3+ hours of charging every night) should keep a 12V battery in decent shape (since the 12V is charged/topped-up while the main Li battery is charging).

hi. very interesting reading! I have two road race cars (Lotus Super Seven and Honda Civic) and one classic vehicle (C4 ZR-1 Corvette) which all sit for extended periods of time (especially during the winter months). I keep a battery tender on all three of them. my typical battery life is 8-10 years (those battery tenders REALLY extend battery life!).

I haven't used the tender on my Spark at all; it's 2 yrs old and 21k miles now, and I typically drive it 40-70 miles every day. that means that it gets L2 charged every night for 3+ hrs; perhaps that's why I've never had any 12v issues?

Since the vehicle is getting driven and charged several hours a day, the battery is most likely staying pretty full.

CCIE said:

Does your Cabin AC work ok? Have you checked that none of the coolant reservoirs under the hood are low? Finally, can you check the 12V battery under the hood for proper voltage? These cars do weird things when the 12V battery gets old.

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The cabin AC works. My $10 voltmeter reads 12.55-12.77V just now.

The light has stayed off for the last few weeks. My guess is it didn't see much charging/driving at the dealer, but now that I'm driving it every day the lead acid battery is being charged properly.