Help programming RKE transmitter for 2016

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pfn

New member
Joined
Feb 22, 2017
Messages
3
I picked up a rollback/unwind 2016 Spark EV (875mi) a couple weeks ago, and it only came with 1 key :-/

Having only a single key is a recipe for disaster, so I promptly ordered PN 94543206 (my original key is 94543205...) and had it cut at a locksmith yesterday.

Anyhow, the manual for 2016 doesn't seem to exist, nor did I receive one with the car, so I looked up the manual for the 2015 and there were procedures within. They do not seem to work.

What I did:

0. car not plugged in to power
1. approached car
2. unlock using remote
3. open flap on emergency key cover (ignition area)
4. insert existing key into ignition keyway
5. nearly immediately insert new key into driver side door keyway
6. turn door key from middle position to unlock position (counter-clockwise) 5 times at moderate speed (not trying to whip it from neutral to unlock quickly, though I did try at varying speeds) -- sometimes I tried more than 5 times, sometimes I tried faster, and sometimes slower
7. wait for anything to show up on the DIC, only usual driver entry information is shown (charge status, plug in to charge, mi remaining, etc.)
8. DIC goes blank after a while (idle timeout), and I try to repeat this all again several times, to the same effect.

The DIC never says "READY FOR REMOTE" etc. :-( I cannot proceed beyond step 2 below.

I thought the 2016 was practically a newer 2015... Has the procedure really changed, or did I do something wrong?

Verbatim from the 2015 manual:

Programming with a Recognized Transmitter

A new transmitter can be programmed to the vehicle when there is one recognized transmitter. To program, the vehicle must be off and all of the transmitters, both currently recognized and new, must be with you.

1. Remove the rubber cap on the steering column. Press the button on the recognized transmitter to extend the key blade. Insert the key blade into the transmitter slot.

2. Insert the vehicle key of the new transmitter into the lock cylinder on the outside of the driver door and turn the key to the unlock position five times within 10 seconds.

The Driver Information Center (DIC) displays READY FOR REMOTE #2, 3, 4 or 5.

3. Remove the recognized key and place the new transmitter into the transmitter slot.

4. Press the POWER button. When the transmitter is learned, the DIC will show that it is ready to program the next transmitter.

5. Remove the transmitter from the transmitter and press X (UNLOCK button)

To program additional transmitters, repeat Steps 3-5

When all additional transmitters are programmed, press and hold the POWER for 12 seconds to exit programming mode.

Replace the plastic trim piece from the small storage area.
 
Procedure is described the same in the 2016 manual. Didn't work for me either.

Contacted local service and they said it must be done by the dealer, they have to hook up their programmer to the car. Can't remember if they quoted me a cost, but it wasn't going to be free. Asked them to do it as warranty since the manual lists the procedure as something the owner can do. They said no.

Contacted Chevy support online and explained the situation. They said they can't do anything until the work was done and paid for, and then could open a case. Wouldn't commit to any specific resolution. Still haven't had the process done yet myself.
 
I had the exact same experience as telero, except that Chevrolet corporate customer support never got back to me. The unprogrammed key is still sitting in a drawer. Dealer wants $80 for 30 seconds of work, and refuses to submit it under warranty as a software defect. (Novato Chevrolet. Roger, the service supervisor, is the worst customer service employee I've ever come across.)

Still haven't decided how to handle this, but it's very frustrating.

Scott
 
any luck with this? i bought a key online and my dealer said he wouldnt program it unless it was bought from a chevy dealer. wanted 180$ for the key and $75 for the programming.
 
Buy a VCX Nano GM from Amazon for $130 and use the included GDS2 software to code the key.
 
CCIE said:
Buy a VCX Nano GM from Amazon for $130 and use the included GDS2 software to code the key.

hi, I got the GDS2 dongle and software but I cannot figure out how to program the fob. Under "Module Diagnostics", the one for keyless remote entry doesn't show any option to configure/program.

I watched this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ju_en0paPtI

But the Spark EV doesn't show any "Remote Control Door Lock Receiver" :(

Any help will be appreciated.
 
In case some of you are trying to figure this out, I might have an update. Picked up a 2015 Spark EV for myself a few weeks ago and needed to make a spare as well. I ordered the same part pfn did (GM 94543206). Had a locksmith who programs keys as well come out to my house. He spent about 1.5 hours trying to program it to no avail. Even tried the method outlined in this thread.

After doing some research, the locksmith told me that this key apparently does not have the proximity sensor found in our original keys, which might explain why our cars are not picking up the key. I looked around and it seems like the part number we need (9513950 for the 15') is extremely rare/no longer manufactured. There is an eBay listing - https://tinyurl.com/y8upx6gm with a set of used transmitters, so we could get new blades cut and try them out. Anyone willing to chance it with me?
 
Cheezecake said:
After doing some research, the locksmith told me that this key apparently does not have the proximity sensor found in our original keys

This seems to likely be the case. I'm taking a shot in the dark with a different key/remote that has not been discussed (costs $30, I'm on the hook for 20% restocking + shipping ($10) if it doesn't work). I have two working keys already, but I'd like to solve this puzzle, and having another spare wouldn't hurt.

If you're someone who is ready to crack and go to the dealer, hang on for a week if possible, I should have the remote key Sat or Mon (Edit, I just found out the seller shipped via DHL..... so it's going to be sometime next week.... probably later in the week), and I'll post whether or not it was successful (and details if it is successful).
 
I was not successful and I feel I have some further bad news... I believe the self program procedure outlined in the manual is flawed/not possible. Why do I believe this? Today I did something every car owner loves to do, I took my door panel off. What's this got to do with the key? I had a suspicion that the key cylinder has no unlock sense. Why did I think this? When you unlock most vehicles from the outside by key, it disarms the factory alarm. In the Spark EV, it does not. The only way I could investigate further, was to visually inspect the components inside the door. There are two plugs with two wires that are nearby the lock cylinder. One pair of wires is for the lock actuator (physically locks and unlocks the door, via command from the bcm (body control module/computer) which receives signals from the switch on the door, the rke remote, or onstar command). The other two wire plug, appears to only be a lock sense component, and here's how it works. You turn the key cylinder in the driver's door to lock the vehicle, the lock plunger/indicator on top of the door goes down, because it has linkage directly connected to the lock cylinder. Also physically connected in the setup is this lock sense mechanism, which detects the locking, sends a signal to the bcm, and locks the rest of the doors also. If you manually depress the lock plunger/indicator on top of the door, it does the same thing. Note however, if you pull it up, nothing happens, additionally if you use the key and unlock the driver's door, it does not unlock the rest of the doors. This two wire connector very likely contains a reference wire/ground and the other is a lock only signal wire that goes to the bcm.

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I believe it's still possible to have a key added by a locksmith, which is what I intend to attempt in the coming days.

Many other GM vehicles with push button start have the same program procedure, but to my knowledge, they all use a laser cut key and in turn, a different key cylinder than the Spark EV. I think GM goofed on this one. I'm happy to join anyone who wants to demand a response/action from GM.
 
Or, you could do what I did, and get a physical key cut for emergencies and keep it in your wallet (the only reason I could think of to need an extra key was if I somehow locked my key in the car and needed to unlock a door). I've never needed the extra key.
 
"Or, you could do what I did, and get a physical key cut for emergencies and keep it in your wallet (the only reason I could think of to need an extra key was if I somehow locked my key in the car and needed to unlock a door). I've never needed the extra key."

may i ask where you found a blank key to be cut and what was the cost? i went to my local locksmith who didn't have the right blank... thank you
 
Bumping this for updates. I have a tech2 clone running the gds2 software and I don't see any module that allows reprogramming for keys. There is a keyless entry module but no functions or controls inside. Has anyone used the gds2 tool and successfully activated key fobs?

The manual instructions didn't work for me either BTW.
 
I’ve got a 2015 that I’m using both original fobs. Had been getting intermittent notifications of key not found, so I bought new batteries and replaced each fob’s battery a few weeks ago. One of them kept working for sure, but we don’t use both remotes very often. So I don’t know when the other fob stopped working, but I know neither fob works now, as a remote. I can enter and start the car with it as a regular key. For the last half hour now I’ve been trying what the manual said, as stated above, and then found this thread. So, I have no answer for you, but I’m in the same boat. I’m on relatively friendly terms with the guy at my closest dealership, so now I’ll call him and see what he has for me. I’ll update soon I hope.

First edit: my guy says they’re running 2-3 days behind, so even dropping it off tomorrow means they aren’t getting to it till next week. I have to figure out when I can drop it off and be without my car for a while. Of course he had no answer to the actual question of what might be wrong, but I also didn’t really expect him to.
 
AbelGoddard said:
...so I bought new batteries and replaced each fob’s battery a few weeks ago. One of them kept working for sure, but we don’t use both remotes very often. So I don’t know when the other fob stopped working, but I know neither fob works now, as a remote.

I like asking stupid questions, so here we go. Did you try different batteries and ensure they are not installed upside down? It's not unheard of for bad batches of batteries. Even though there are measures to prevent things from being installed the wrong way, sometimes it can happen anyways. Good luck.
 
musterdbom said:
The manual instructions didn't work for me either BTW.

Good to know. I posted a thread somewhere on this forum that explained why programming is seemingly not possible due to hardware limitations.
 
TheLondonBroiler said:
... Did you try different batteries and ensure they are not installed upside down? It's not unheard of for bad batches of batteries. ...

Nope, didn’t try another set of batteries. Given that they’re pretty cheap, I’ll give that a whirl. I do know they’re not installed upside down. That’s pretty much the first thing I check on anything powered by removable batteries.
 
Can I get a super basic answer on a piece of this puzzle?
I've got a 2016 Spark EV and one key. I'd like two keys. My dealer says $100 for a key, $180 for programming. So, I'm off to see if any or all of that can be accomplished at a cheaper price.

The key I'm holding has 5 buttons:
1) unlock
2) lock
3) "plug icon" and the word "off"
4) I can only describe as thermometer refresh????
5) is a red light icon

So, firstly, I can't find this EXACT key anywhere on the interwebs. I've ONLY ever used the lock and unlock buttons. If I acquire a Chevy key that has just those two buttons (or those two plus trunk/hatchback icon...or those two plus the red light icon) - will that work?

Ian
 
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