Place Key in Transmitter Pocket

[dmd3homeagain]

2014 Spark......OK, I'm having the same issue. Neither key fob works.....even with new batteries. I shouldn't have to search out a "h" battery (as posted above), I'm using the 2032 as specified (both check out at 3.23V). The originals were straight 2032's and used to work fine. Something's wrong with the car! Someone said there are two receivers and it's unlikely that both would go out. What could be wrong? The 12V battery checks out at 12.5V. What else could be wrong?

[TheLondonBroiler]

2014 Spark......OK, I'm having the same issue. Neither key fob works.....even with new batteries. I shouldn't have to search out a "h" battery (as posted above), I'm using the 2032 as specified (both check out at 3.23V). The originals were straight 2032's and used to work fine. Something's wrong with the car! Someone said there are two receivers and it's unlikely that both would go out. What could be wrong? The 12V battery checks out at 12.5V. What else could be wrong?

So I'm understanding correctly, you're not able to unlock the car (buttons don't work) nor can you start the car without the key in the slot?

My theory that there are two separate modules the remote operates, is just that, a theory. I do have a decade plus background in electronics, so I wouldn't say it if I didn't believe it to likely be the case, and while I'm wrong a fair amount, I'm right most of the time.

I posted a picture on the previous page showing the correct orientation of the battery in the remote, double check yours please. Also seen in that picture, the batteries I used were sunbeam, aka dollar tree, you don't need a special 2032.

[dmd3homeagain]

Thanks for responding....sorry for the delay...I've been away for a bit.
Yes, I'm well aware of the battery orientation and have tried multiple batteries in both remotes (key fobs) and even bought an additional new pack of Duracells....all with the same result: neither key works remotely, either using buttons or by rf proximity detection....have to put the key in the slot to get the car to do anything. Everything is completely manual at this point, with both remote keys. And I always have the "Replace Battery in Remote Key" message on the dash screen no matter which key is present (or both). I'm thinking the message will get "burned into" the dash display at this point. This message remains even if both remotes are well away from the car and in a shielded location (in the refrig to ensure no communication as a test). As I recall, in this later experiment, with no remote anywhere near the car, opening the door and looking at the dash the message should be, something like, "No Remote Key Detected".....not the "Replace Battery in Remote Key" that I am getting. This would seem to indicate an issue with the remote detection unit within the car.....it thinks a key is present, but with a low battery.....even when there is no remote anywhere near the car. So, if anyone has any ideas on further diagnostics it would be much appreciated. Much thanks.

[TheLondonBroiler]

if anyone has any ideas on further diagnostics it would be much appreciated. Much thanks.

Understood. I am not making recommendations, but have you "reset" the 12 volt system? This process entails disconnecting the 12 volt battery, letting it sit for a period of time in this state, touching the two vehicle terminal connectors together, and reconnecting them to the battery.

[dmd3homeagain]

Thanks, I haven't tried that. I understand disconnecting the 12v battery, but touching the terminals together? Is that really recommended? Yes, I see how that would discharge capacitors and other lingering voltage in various components, but it still seems a bit risky. I'm a bit reluctant. Is this a recommended Chevy service procedure?

Thanks.