Jusntil6935 wrote: ↑
Thu Apr 01, 2021 8:16 am
...If you don't have anything constructive to say keep your stupidity to yourself.
For the others, thanks for your input.
I thought buying a Bolt with 3 times the battery size and 3 times the range was a brilliant idea!
If you were able to get some SW that plays nice with a parallel pack in the back of the car and spent how much time and money
mounting and connecting the required coolant lines, HV and comm wires and doing something to the front and rear suspensions.....
How much money would you have tied up in this silly 2 seater?
You could sell the Spark and buy a Bolt and be on the road with a Gen 2 Long Range EV in a few days!!! Brilliant!!
And for a lot less dollars. Have you seen what you can buy a Bolt for?
Definitely, and while this does make sense if the goal is to get range in the easiest, least expensive way and for the greatest value, it is a different car. Some individuals desire to work on, upgrade, or modify their vehicles instead of trading them in for newer stock vehicles. Keep in mind people are still converting ICE vehicles to electric, so upgrading a spark EV is by no means unreasonable considering everything's all there.
It's not a secret that this kind of response -- bordering apathy -- has been shared before and spread throughout the spark EV forums. While rational, the suggestion does not address the topic and often intends to stifle the courage of those fishing for information who may be willing to spend the time and effort expanding their skillset. I'd love to see people doing more of that over trading stock vehicles.
Is it possible to install a second drive battery pack atop (and in parallel to) the resident battery pack of six to double the vehicles range?
And yes, I am okay without a back seat and hatch compartment. I can Not find any information about wire harness or connections to/from
the drive batteries. The info on these EVs is very sparse.
Yes it is possible to parallel high voltage batteries. It, however, very much depends on how you want to do it, and to what extent. I would recommend first to buy yourself a service manual or get an online service manual subscription to view all the dealer level information on schematics, functional descriptions, removal and replacement procedures, and connector diagrams. The more you understand the existing drive motor battery management system, the better position you'll be in to make an informed decision for a Spark EV or any future electric vehicle upgrade for that matter.
If you are installing a battery pack carrier between the hatch and rear seats (atop the existing battery pack), you first need to ensure that the carrier is exceptionally
secured to the frame. This goes without saying if you're going to use your own subfloor instead of a second carrier. In the case of an accident, you don't want to have up to 400 pounds of batteries shifting inside the vehicle and crush you from behind, and since the batteries are higher up, the only thing that would stop a battery carrier that sheared off from its fasteners are the front seats. The original drive motor battery, by contrast, is secured to the car from the underbody, securely fastened to the frame.
The next questions that needs to be investigated are how to interface the new/used spark EV battery pack, and this includes ensuring there is unobstructed access to the manual service disconnect (needs to be moved) along with the electrical connection to the 363V bus bars, and if the Battery Energy Control Module has the ability to add more cell groups / modules to its OEM BMS for balancing and communication. If the OEM BMS does not have spare connector pins to crimp for extra battery interface modules that can directly report to the powertrain control module 2, then you'll be looking at two sets of battery energy control modules, one master, and one slave that is really more of an isolated unit without communication with the master.
To get a better look at the battery and parts involved without vague stock images from press releases or gritty service manual drawings, I highly recommend spending some time on the Weber Auto youtube channel.
The closest comparison to the Spark EV's battery pack and technology would be the Chevy Volt, and you can watch this video for a detailed real world view:
There is also a comprehensive breakdown of the Bolt EV's battery, and all the high voltage components. It is an instrumental source of information.
For all of the connector names, electrical schematics, you can supplement info from the service manual, which will list the connector type, the pins and what they go to.
The Volt, the Spark EV, and the Bolt all have unique shapes, but the configurations are more or less the same. If you can fabricate a custom subfloor/carrier for the spark EV that efficiently packs it into the trunk/backseat area, I think that would be the most ideal, rather than the carrier that would most likely drape over the interior in an awkward way.
Another note on building confidence and inspiration for this kind of job is Rich Benoit (Rich Rebuilds) who recently "finished" his mini cooper conversion. Watch a few of these videos in the DIY budget electric mini cooper series
to consider if you even want the OEM spark battery and carrier set (which is available new, used, or through auction), or if you want a different 96S pack from a different car (with coolant ports).
You'll also need a place to work on your car. At certain points in the project, the car won't be drivable at the end of the day, so having a communal shop, your own garage, or a 300-900+ sqft industrial / storage space with bay doors for lease would be a good idea.
Lastly, look on google maps or by any other means, and research what businesses are in your area that can consult with you on a job like this, or take care of difficult portions of the project for you (like designing and fabricating the subfloor).