NORTON
Posts: 1385
Joined: Fri May 01, 2015 5:52 am
Location: KC,MO

Re: Temperature problem?

Sun Apr 11, 2021 5:51 am

Thanks again!
And now I can totally remove my back seats to get even more space. It's been a two seat cargo hauler for a long time.
I can't remember the last time I had the back seats up.
'14 Spark EV 2LT w/ DCFC. 95k miles !! Going strong!
'17 Bolt Premier w/ It All! 64k miles.
GM needs Modern Troubleshooting tools for Modern EV's.
3 step Trouble Tree, 1st try, nope, 2nd try / cost $800. 3rd try fixed it.

drpeshev
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2020 8:22 am

Re: Temperature problem?

Wed Apr 14, 2021 7:03 am

It got cold again and the car stopped again(When I turn it on-only one happens: " Initializing , wait to shift",but NOT Ready). What is temperature-dependent under the hood???! When you put a heater in front of the car , it starts. It doesn't start below 10 degrees celsius (50oF)

Infinion
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2020 2:59 pm
Location: Burnaby, BC

Re: Temperature problem?

Thu Apr 15, 2021 12:02 am

drpeshev wrote:
Wed Apr 14, 2021 7:03 am
It got cold again and the car stopped again(When I turn it on-only one happens: " Initializing , wait to shift",but NOT Ready). What is temperature-dependent under the hood???! When you put a heater in front of the car , it starts. It doesn't start below 10 degrees celsius (50oF)
Yeah I'm not really sure what is allowing you to start the car under the hood. Instead of a big heater, do you have a blowdryer to direct the hot air more precisely? Maybe you could experiment on what specific section/component under the hood allows you to start the car when you heat it up.

Have you tried preconditioning the vehicle before driving? Press the lock button on your key then hold the precondition button for a few seconds until the hazards flash once. This will activate the car and enable the 2kW battery heater until you start driving.

Have you tried entering Service Mode? This is done by holding the start button for longer than 5 seconds and enables all systems besides driving, which you could use to heat the battery with the 2kW battery heater. After a minute, you can shut the car off and then start the car in normal mode to see if it is drivable.
drpeshev wrote:
Fri Apr 09, 2021 12:16 am
Where (the Hell) is this resistor
What is battery disconnect unit BDU (12v harness?)
Are you actually talking about R39? If so, it is here
Image

To access this, you have to remove the High voltage battery cover that sits overtop everything.

Image
The battery needs to be disconnected and high voltage service disconnect removed.
Normally you would disconnect the connectors and lower the battery out of the car from below while the vehicle is on a lift....But that requires the help of a proper shop.

I don't know if you can access all the bolt locations from inside, but it is certain that you would have to remove the cloth floor, and I have no idea how to do that without removing it destructively with cuts all around the battery pack in order to create a huge opening. Better if you lower the pack on a big scissor lift table while the car is on a lift of its own. (Find an EV repair shop!).

Here are some pictures of the battery box situated in the vehicle.

https://www.sparktalk.com/threads/2014- ... tures.360/

drpeshev
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2020 8:22 am

Re: Temperature problem?

Thu Apr 15, 2021 12:57 am

I haven't tried R39 yet , because it is too complicated and not under the hood.When I put a heater in front of the car in the garage and the temperature rises 10oC/50oF there is NO problem.
I tried preconditioning with the remote- not working under 10oC/50oF
Will try Service Mode!
Thank you very , very much

drpeshev
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Nov 06, 2020 8:22 am

Re: Temperature problem?

Sun Oct 10, 2021 1:40 am

R39 changed without lower the battery out of the car
Image
BUT NO luck - now is cold again and my spark won't start under 15oC (60F)
Any other suggestions ?
p.s. Is there any chance the car is made only for California hot climate and there is some temperature software restrictions
Thank you very much for helping me , desperate again

Infinion
Posts: 25
Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2020 2:59 pm
Location: Burnaby, BC

Re: Temperature problem?

Sat Oct 16, 2021 10:09 am

drpeshev wrote:
Sun Oct 10, 2021 1:40 am
R39 changed without lower the battery out of the car
Image
BUT NO luck - now is cold again and my spark won't start under 15oC (60F)
Any other suggestions ?
p.s. Is there any chance the car is made only for California hot climate and there is some temperature software restrictions
Thank you very much for helping me , desperate again
Hey drpeshev, that sucks that you're still having problems. Very impressive that you got to R39.

No, the car works in cold climates, it's 6-10ºC where I live and the range is just reduced.


Let's hit PAUSE on investigating the high voltage interlock loop and investigate a few more basic things.

First, have you tested the AGM battery under the hood to see if the voltage is too low on a cold morning? If the voltage is too low, the high voltage contactors won't engage and I don't believe the APM will engage either. The AGM could have a low state of charge, or it could be fully degraded and unable to hold a sufficient charge while cold. That being said, when you add your heater and blow hot air under the hood in both situations, it could increase the available capacity and allow you to run the vehicle. This could be an indication of a dying AGM that needs to be replaced if true.

To get sufficient voltage for initializing the system and getting the car in a "ready to drive" state, do you have any other 12V lead-acid batteries lying around, or clamp-on (jumper) 12V car starters that you could add to or replace the AGM with for TESTING purposes?
A few users have replaced the AGM with smaller batteries and SLA batteries in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=9274 and it seemed to have worked in their vehicles.

To start, find a voltmeter or multimeter to test the voltage. Report what the voltage is between the terminals
  • Voltage while cold,
  • Voltage after you've raised the temperature under the hood with your heater, and
  • Voltage after you start the vehicle (should be around 14V from the DC-DC auxiliary power module.


A charged battery should be sitting at around 12.6V or higher. If it's somewhere in the 11.5-12.2V range it's getting pretty deeply discharged and should be put on a charger immediately or have its capacity checked (50Ah?) and completely replaced if it has dropped below 11.5V (causes sulfation, huge loss of capacity every time).


Another thing worth checking for are loose battery cables which can cause a voltage drop if they are corroded or don't have proper contact. This would also give you issues so make sure terminals are tight at the battery posts, and also confirm that there is a good connection to the body ground.

Report your voltage findings and we'll start from there. It would be great if it all came down to a dead battery. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

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