Help programming RKE transmitter for 2016

[TheLondonBroiler]

After doing some research, the locksmith told me that this key apparently does not have the proximity sensor found in our original keys

This seems to likely be the case. I'm taking a shot in the dark with a different key/remote that has not been discussed (costs $30, I'm on the hook for 20% restocking + shipping ($10) if it doesn't work). I have two working keys already, but I'd like to solve this puzzle, and having another spare wouldn't hurt.

If you're someone who is ready to crack and go to the dealer, hang on for a week if possible, I should have the remote key Sat or Mon (Edit, I just found out the seller shipped via DHL..... so it's going to be sometime next week.... probably later in the week), and I'll post whether or not it was successful (and details if it is successful).

[TheLondonBroiler]

I was not successful and I feel I have some further bad news... I believe the self program procedure outlined in the manual is flawed/not possible. Why do I believe this? Today I did something every car owner loves to do, I took my door panel off. What's this got to do with the key? I had a suspicion that the key cylinder has no unlock sense. Why did I think this? When you unlock most vehicles from the outside by key, it disarms the factory alarm. In the Spark EV, it does not. The only way I could investigate further, was to visually inspect the components inside the door. There are two plugs with two wires that are nearby the lock cylinder. One pair of wires is for the lock actuator (physically locks and unlocks the door, via command from the bcm (body control module/computer) which receives signals from the switch on the door, the rke remote, or onstar command). The other two wire plug, appears to only be a lock sense component, and here's how it works. You turn the key cylinder in the driver's door to lock the vehicle, the lock plunger/indicator on top of the door goes down, because it has linkage directly connected to the lock cylinder. Also physically connected in the setup is this lock sense mechanism, which detects the locking, sends a signal to the bcm, and locks the rest of the doors also. If you manually depress the lock plunger/indicator on top of the door, it does the same thing. Note however, if you pull it up, nothing happens, additionally if you use the key and unlock the driver's door, it does not unlock the rest of the doors. This two wire connector very likely contains a reference wire/ground and the other is a lock only signal wire that goes to the bcm.




I believe it's still possible to have a key added by a locksmith, which is what I intend to attempt in the coming days.

Many other GM vehicles with push button start have the same program procedure, but to my knowledge, they all use a laser cut key and in turn, a different key cylinder than the Spark EV. I think GM goofed on this one. I'm happy to join anyone who wants to demand a response/action from GM.

[SparkE]

Or, you could do what I did, and get a physical key cut for emergencies and keep it in your wallet (the only reason I could think of to need an extra key was if I somehow locked my key in the car and needed to unlock a door). I've never needed the extra key.

[MoldyWalnuts]

"Or, you could do what I did, and get a physical key cut for emergencies and keep it in your wallet (the only reason I could think of to need an extra key was if I somehow locked my key in the car and needed to unlock a door). I've never needed the extra key."

may i ask where you found a blank key to be cut and what was the cost? i went to my local locksmith who didn't have the right blank... thank you

[musterdbom]

Bumping this for updates. I have a tech2 clone running the gds2 software and I don't see any module that allows reprogramming for keys. There is a keyless entry module but no functions or controls inside. Has anyone used the gds2 tool and successfully activated key fobs?

The manual instructions didn't work for me either BTW.

[AbelGoddard]

I’ve got a 2015 that I’m using both original fobs. Had been getting intermittent notifications of key not found, so I bought new batteries and replaced each fob’s battery a few weeks ago. One of them kept working for sure, but we don’t use both remotes very often. So I don’t know when the other fob stopped working, but I know neither fob works now, as a remote. I can enter and start the car with it as a regular key. For the last half hour now I’ve been trying what the manual said, as stated above, and then found this thread. So, I have no answer for you, but I’m in the same boat. I’m on relatively friendly terms with the guy at my closest dealership, so now I’ll call him and see what he has for me. I’ll update soon I hope.

First edit: my guy says they’re running 2-3 days behind, so even dropping it off tomorrow means they aren’t getting to it till next week. I have to figure out when I can drop it off and be without my car for a while. Of course he had no answer to the actual question of what might be wrong, but I also didn’t really expect him to.

[TheLondonBroiler]

...so I bought new batteries and replaced each fob’s battery a few weeks ago. One of them kept working for sure, but we don’t use both remotes very often. So I don’t know when the other fob stopped working, but I know neither fob works now, as a remote.

I like asking stupid questions, so here we go. Did you try different batteries and ensure they are not installed upside down? It's not unheard of for bad batches of batteries. Even though there are measures to prevent things from being installed the wrong way, sometimes it can happen anyways. Good luck.

[TheLondonBroiler]

The manual instructions didn't work for me either BTW.

Good to know. I posted a thread somewhere on this forum that explained why programming is seemingly not possible due to hardware limitations.

[AbelGoddard]

... Did you try different batteries and ensure they are not installed upside down? It's not unheard of for bad batches of batteries. ...

Nope, didn’t try another set of batteries. Given that they’re pretty cheap, I’ll give that a whirl. I do know they’re not installed upside down. That’s pretty much the first thing I check on anything powered by removable batteries.

[IanPeace]

Can I get a super basic answer on a piece of this puzzle?
I've got a 2016 Spark EV and one key. I'd like two keys. My dealer says $100 for a key, $180 for programming. So, I'm off to see if any or all of that can be accomplished at a cheaper price.

The key I'm holding has 5 buttons:
1) unlock
2) lock
3) "plug icon" and the word "off"
4) I can only describe as thermometer refresh????
5) is a red light icon

So, firstly, I can't find this EXACT key anywhere on the interwebs. I've ONLY ever used the lock and unlock buttons. If I acquire a Chevy key that has just those two buttons (or those two plus trunk/hatchback icon...or those two plus the red light icon) - will that work?

Ian