Help programming RKE transmitter for 2016

[AbelGoddard]

I don’t know the answer to your question, but here’s some info:

You can absolutely find a cheaper route with an official key.

3) if you’re plugged into DC, you can tell the car to stop charging. I’m not sure why one would do that.

4) that’s your remote start. Press the lock button and then hold that thermometer refresh button for 4 seconds. If you’re not within remote range of the car you can use the app to do it. It’s very handy.

5) panic button. Press and hold and the car alarm will go off and hopefully draw attention to it and whatever danger you’re in or need help with.

Hope that helps a bit.

[TheLondonBroiler]

Can I get a super basic answer on a piece of this puzzle?

If I acquire a Chevy key that has just those two buttons (or those two plus trunk/hatchback icon...or those two plus the red light icon) - will that work?

Ian

Probably slightly better than snowballs chance in hell odds.

How about countering, my owner's manual tells me I can program a key, but the instructions don't work. What say you Mr. GM Man?

[RSC]

Any updates on this? I have two remotes (95199350), but ordered another (94543206) before reading this. I have not tried the procedure in the manual. Has anyone had success with it?

My only reason for the third remote is that the buttons on one of the originals are worn out and partially torn. Really, if I could transplant the electronics from an original into a new body, it would be OK, but I'm afraid that this might be a destructive operation. Has anyone tried this?

[AbelGoddard]

So, I was finally able to get the car to the dealer, and their diagnosis is bad batteries in BOTH of my remotes. That diagnosis cost me almost $50. I haven’t been able to get new batteries again yet, so I don’t have an actual resolution. I find it odd that so many of us have the same problem and yet it’s never the car that’s the problem.

[EuwingKelly]

If you have a problem with the remote fobs, instead of going to the locksmith, visit the dealership. They probably have best solution to the problem.

[AbelGoddard]

I’ve had this car for, what, almost 3 years? I’ve had to replace batteries in both of my fobs at least twice, and one of them 3 times. In NO other car that I’ve had for many more years have I replaced batteries more than once.

[TheLondonBroiler]

I’ve had this car for, what, almost 3 years? I’ve had to replace batteries in both of my fobs at least twice, and one of them 3 times. In NO other car that I’ve had for many more years have I replaced batteries more than once.

Any of your other cars have Push button To Start? The Spark was my first car with PTS. My somewhat educated guess is that the proximity function is what's causing the primary drain.... change that.... it is indeed because of the proximity function. That being said, is it a poor design causing this? I'm not sure. I've have my Bolt 14 months (with HEAVY use/57k miles), and haven't had to replace the fob battery yet. I have no other first or second what experience to compare it to.

I will say this, when I drove my Spark daily, when approaching the car, I'd reach into my pocket and press the unlock button on the remote. I would then enter the car, PTS, and drive. When you compare fumblef**king with keys and cranking to start, having to simply replace the battery once a year (you can even buy them in bulk and leave them with all your other batteries), it's a worthy endeavor TO ME. The car even tells you the battery it's getting low.

[AbelGoddard]

I agreed with your theory about proximity for minute, then thought back to all my other cars. Theory doesn’t hold up, unfortunately.

We currently have a Nissan Rogue that’s PTS that we got 8 months before my Spark. No fob batteries changed.

My Ford Focus Electric was PTS. Not just PTS, I never had to take the key out of my pocket, because the door had proximity and I just touched the door handle to lock and unlock. 3 year lease immediately prior to getting the Spark, no fob battery change. I spent literally zero dollars on that Focus for 3 years, besides the monthly payment and the electricity to charge it. Except for the low range, I loved that Focus. It was a really good car.

Prior to those, I had 2 Accords that were PTS, had then for about 5 years each. Replaced the fob battery on my fob once on each of those, but not my wife’s fob.

This Spark has given me more hassles than most of my other cars. But they’re more like irritations, because they haven’t kept me from using the car except while it was at the dealer to try to figure out what’s wrong.

[TheLondonBroiler]

That being said, is it a poor design causing this? I'm not sure. I've have my Bolt 14 months (with HEAVY use/57k miles), and haven't had to replace the fob battery yet. I have no other first or second what (Edit should be HAND not what) experience to compare it to.

It sounds like you just solved it, IMO. The PTS remote electronics GM used appear to use a lot more power than competitors technology. Hopefully they changed remote suppliers for the Bolt.

[Mesasand]

I tried it multiple times, multiple ways - never worked for me either. I broke down and went to the dealership. Cost me $40.