drpeshev wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 1:40 am
R39 changed without lower the battery out of the car
BUT NO luck - now is cold again and my spark won't start under 15oC (60F)
Any other suggestions ?
p.s. Is there any chance the car is made only for California hot climate and there is some temperature software restrictions
Thank you very much for helping me , desperate again
Hey drpeshev, that sucks that you're still having problems. Very impressive that you got to R39.
No, the car works in cold climates, it's 6-10ºC where I live and the range is just reduced.
Let's hit PAUSE on investigating the high voltage interlock loop and investigate a few more basic things.
First, have you tested the AGM battery under the hood to see if the voltage is too low on a cold morning? If the voltage is too low, the high voltage contactors won't engage and I don't believe the APM will engage either. The AGM could have a low state of charge, or it could be fully degraded and unable to hold a sufficient charge while cold. That being said, when you add your heater and blow hot air under the hood in both situations, it could increase the available capacity and allow you to run the vehicle. This could be an indication of a dying AGM that needs to be replaced if true.
To get sufficient voltage for initializing the system and getting the car in a "ready to drive" state, do you have any other 12V lead-acid batteries lying around, or clamp-on (jumper) 12V car starters that you could add to or replace the AGM with for TESTING purposes?
A few users have replaced the AGM with smaller batteries and SLA batteries in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=9274
and it seemed to have worked in their vehicles.
To start, find a voltmeter or multimeter to test the voltage. Report what the voltage is between the terminals
- Voltage while cold,
- Voltage after you've raised the temperature under the hood with your heater, and
- Voltage after you start the vehicle (should be around 14V from the DC-DC auxiliary power module.
A charged battery should be sitting at around 12.6V or higher. If it's somewhere in the 11.5-12.2V range it's getting pretty deeply discharged and should be put on a charger immediately or have its capacity checked (50Ah?) and completely replaced if it has dropped below 11.5V (causes sulfation, huge loss of capacity every time).
Another thing worth checking for are loose battery cables which can cause a voltage drop if they are corroded or don't have proper contact. This would also give you issues so make sure terminals are tight at the battery posts, and also confirm that there is a good connection to the body ground.
Report your voltage findings and we'll start from there. It would be great if it all came down to a dead battery. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.