Died while driving due to 12v battery

[Randy960]

I haven't been particularly active here, but I've been meaning to post some of the work I've done on my Spark lately. However, last week on my way home from work, my spark lost power with ~20% range left. I towed it home and tried to charge it, but it wouldn't let me.

You guessed it, my (apparently 6 year old) 12v battery bit the dust, and the car panicked and locked out the HV battery. The information on this forum was absolutely critical to me figuring this out. I have the full service manual, but it's difficult to even know where to start when the only code that comes up on a normal OBDII scanner is P1E00.

Now, I've been wanting to buy a nice bidirectional scan tool, but the one I want is $1100, and I just don't have that at the moment. So I went for the VCX Nano. The price was right ($125), but that's not factoring in the 4 hours I spent trying to get it to work. I've installed some sketchy bootleg software in my day, but this was something else. I never got it to work on my windows 11 laptop, but eventually it worked on one of those micro-computers that cost like $100 loaded with windows 10. I already had it stuck to the back of a small tv, and I figured if I have to wipe it, it's not a big deal.

Anyway, I eventually got GDS2 to work, and was able to read the secured codes in the Hybrid Powertrain Control Module 2. They were P0AFA (low voltage) and U183E, which is a communications error. I'm assuming when the voltage on the 12v battery sags low enough, the car loses communication.

I was able to clear the U183E code, and then the car would charge! I've now replaced the 12v battery, and I'm getting a desulfating battery tender to keep it in good shape.

 

[SparkE]

Also, a (small, light, very portable) LiIon "battery jump starter" can save your bacon when this happens. You just clip it over the terminals of the battery, and it becomes your "new battery" until you get it home.

 

[SparkE]

And ...

You might want tyo read this thread :
https://www.mychevysparkev.com/thre...-dealer-wants-2k-help-needed.9486/#post-29523

 

[Randy960]

I actually do carry a lithium jump pack. My spark replaced a long line of beater cars, so I am generally pretty prepared, haha. But with the HV battery locked out, it's not much help, haha.

 

[Randy960]

And I think I finally have time to install my new tender tomorrow, haha. Ordered it at the same time as my new battery.

 

[PhilPen]

Also, a (small, light, very portable) LiIon "battery jump starter" can save your bacon when this happens. You just clip it over the terminals of the battery, and it becomes your "new battery" until you get it home.

I very recently, 5th August 2024, replaced the 12V battery in my 2016 Chevy Spark EV with a LiLife LiFePO4 battery. First I had to relocate the terminals on the battery to the appropriate side (used large flange nuts JB-Welded to the battery, holding screw in brass terminals). I also had to remove the battery tray (added now slip tape made for steps to the base of the battery and a one of the crossmembers on which the battery now sits). I also had to do a little wire extension (there was a large ground wire in among the positive leads running from the battery to the frame (likely only needed on the gas powered sparks for cranking power, so I could probably have just cut this out.... but didn't just in case it was needed). The short length ground lead limited the movement of the wire bundle so by extending the ground wire 15 cm the positive wire bundle could reach the battery positive easily. After the removal of the battery tray I made my own hold down (see photo). I also had to carefully trimming of some bits of under-hood plastic with a dremel, thus I got the larger but lighter (half the weight) but double the energy capacity (100 amp hr versus 50) battery to fit. I can replace the battery with a factory lead acid in a minute or so if required. I'm hooping the high-end BMS in the lithium cell should allow it to function/charge OK, in my car. Anyway so far so good.

 

[Randy960]

Nice! I had been considering a lithium battery, but decided to stick with AGM just in case the car didn't play well with a lithium battery. I hope yours goes well, because I'd love a little more 12v capacity, and double at the same weight would be awesome.

 

[PhilPen]

The Lithium battery actually weighs less than the original AC Delco lead acid, it is 22 lbs rather than 33 lbs, then also minus the weight of the old battery tray etc., and the car has lost about 15 lbs. I know not much but it all adds up.

 

[SmokeyPete]

Rockauto.com

They shipped the correct AGM battery amazingly quick and I took the old battery to Autozone for a gift card.

If only the other repairs were as easy or at this point, even possible.

IMHO, don't mess around with other battery chemistries or sizes considering almost nobody (Including the dealership) can fix your car.

 

[Randy960]

I ended up getting mine from Amazon because it was a couple bucks cheaper and shipped quicker. Does the Bolt use the exact same battery, or is this weirdly specific size going to disappear soon? I wouldn't hesitate to put in a larger AGM battery, because that shouldn't matter to the DC-DC converter, but I am still curious how it will handle a lithium battery long-term.

 

[PhilPen]

I'd had, between our two 2016 Spark EVs, 5 bad lead acid batteries in less than 2 months (including one from Amazon). So I made the switch to lithium now for both cars. Here's a link to the latest lithium conversion https://www.mychevysparkev.com/thre...hter-lithium-battery-with-double-the-ah.9551/ it has a few more photos than the above post. My wife has been commuting about 75 miles a day in hers, and she has now has >10 charge cycles ..... and so far no problems. The specs on the LiLife battery indicated to me that it would be fine with the Chevrolet DC-DC converters output.