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I posted my resolution of my problems on the other break post, but basically I had to replace both the controller and the modulator valve. Suppostely the controller was hosing the modulator valve causing it to fail again. It could also be that they replace it with a broken modulator originally...

I keep forgetting I wanted to post an update on this. So the problem repeated itself about 6 months after I got it fixed at the dealer. I had moved to a different suburb of Denver so I ended up taking it to a different dealer. These guys knew what they were doing and got it fixed finally. I have...

Well that would be a good plan if the work wasn't done in California and I live in Colorado.. :( Also the dealership in Colorado did offer a reduce bill for the repairs, but I think GM should have done something. I will be making some noise on the internet about this if they don't.

I ended up deciding to call my friend who is a mechanical engineer. He says the torque depends on the size of the bolt so I have to figure out how big the bolt is if I can.

OK I need to enlist anyone who has had brake problems on their Spark EVs.. So they are telling me that the break pressure modulator valve (that was replaced under 2 years ago under warranty was incorrectly installed. Apparently the 4 bolts that connect the electronic brake control module to it...

I should add after looking at the DTC listing again I think maybe some of those were just in memory and not active. The active one is DTC code C0561- System disabled symptom code is 4B - system calibration not learned. I think the used car place said they would try to re-load the calibration...

Well here I am again.. I had a slightly different problem crop up with the breaks but this time it do it more randomly while you were driving. It ended up at the dealer because it had so many weird problems they couldn't figure it out. Now even the dealer can't figure it out. It sounds like...

OK so I guess they ended up having to vacuum bleed the brakes in order to get the air out of the system. So far so good no errors or anything and its working good now. Hope it stays that way for now....

Well the good news is the brakes were working fine as far as I could tell, but it still was triggering a abs code sometimes after you powered it up. They looked at it again and its saying that the computer was saying there was a leak from one of the front wheels. The mechanic surmised that they...

Well it seems like they say they got it fixed with the new master cylinder. Going to go over and pick it up so I keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't act up again. Was really excited about getting an EV so I hope I don't end up disappointed in the end..

So the part they are replacing is the master cylinder which is about a $600 part - #95489495 It sounds like from what I gathered out of the service repair manual was to replace the modulator valve if the symptom involved the break pedal also kicking back when the fault occurs. As far as I know...

So I was going to get the part number for the part they were replacing tomorrow, but as I researcher it more I think they are replacing the master cylinder (which includes the booster). Looking at it that might be the bad part (I hope). I do notice that the break peddle on mine was slowly...

Thanks that is good to know but a bit dis-concerning your still having problems. It too was during cold weather in Colorado maybe in the 20-30s(F) range or lower. They decided to replace the break petal sensor first but as I feared that didn't work. They were going to replace the break booster...

I just bought a used 2015 Chev Spark EV today. It was fine when I drove it around for a test drive. However when I brought it home and then went to dinner. I started having this exact intermittent issue cropping up now with the power brakes shutting down. :( Luckily I sprung for the warranty but...