Chris101 wrote: ↑
Fri May 01, 2020 3:17 pm
Okay? You are talking about a car 2 years newer and you replaced a battery on your own as a precaution and?
I only stated a fact that in my case, the battery was OEM, 5 years old and unable to hold a proper charge. ...
Battery life varies greatly depending on actual use and the fact is a Spark EV does not have an alternator so 12V battery charging simply doesn't work the same way.
My '14, at 79k miles, has the original battery.
I think Lead Acid battery life depends on a few things.
How frequently it is used and charged up, the temp it is stored at, and ,,,,
The worst for a battery is to sit for months being drained by the systems in the car that use power while the car is OFF.
There are stories of cars that sit on dealer lots for gadknows how long and when someone comes to look at it there isn't enough power to boot the car up (EV) or start the ICE.
So the chumps from the dealer 'Jump it' and they say 'All is good now', only that battery is now in bad shape, probably ruined, from sitting discharged for so long. You can't do that to a lead acid. They need 'maintenance charging' for long term storage.
So, the life of a Lead Acid battery depends on how its life has been. When you buy a used car, it's the luck of the draw.
As for a car with an alternator vs an EV with a DC to DC converter, the battery doesn't know where the topping voltage comes from.
It just sits there on the 12V bus and absorbs the current it needs to then 'float' at the typical 13.8 to 14.2 'Bus Voltage', (temp dependent).
It's a passive electrochemical thing. There isn't a battery charging system. It just happens, regardless of how the voltage is generated.
'14 Spark EV 2LT w/ DCFC. 95k miles !! Going strong!
'17 Bolt Premier w/ It All! 64k miles.
GM needs Modern Troubleshooting tools for Modern EV's.
3 step Trouble Tree, 1st try, nope, 2nd try / cost $800. 3rd try fixed it.