Shoot. My car started to have issues with Brake Assist/Stabilitrack/ABS about a week and a half ago. The hydraulic and regenerative brakes still work, but it requires it a lot more force for the hydraulic brakes without the brake assist. They start working again when I turn the car off and start it up again (though the quickest turnaround I've tried for this is a few hours). Since the problem first appeared, it's happened 5 out of the last 7 times I've driven the car, usually after driven around 7-10 miles or so, though once, it happened within a block of the start of the trip.
The car has mostly been with my local dealership since the problem started, but I just got it back with the issue unrepaired for the second time this evening. The first time, they replaced my 12V battery (they said there were codes for low voltage on a lot of the submodules of the car), but when did a capacity test on it (I asked for the old one back) it had about 42Ah, which seems surprisingly good for a 4 year old lead acid battery originally rated for 50Ah that has been through a few Las Vegas summers.
The second time, they said they were unable to replicate the problem after 2 50 mile drives, which seems unlikely to me, given my experience since it started. I'm going to drive it the next couple of days to see if I can figure out some kind of pattern to reliably reproduce the problem quickly, but I'm starting to wonder how worth dealing with the dealership is. That $300 set of service manuals is starting to look more and more attractive. Is there a better way (more detailed anyways) to get error codes that the cheapo bluetooth odbc modules and the torque app?
2014 LT1 in Las Vegas, NV