Impact of heater on miles / kWh

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MrDRMorgan

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 30, 2013
Messages
1,211
Location
Manteca in Central California
As a 2015 Spark EV "newbie" I have yet to experience the impact of the vehicle's heating system on the overall miles / kWh during the winter months. Do any of you have a good idea of what I can expect and how to minimize the impact? Temperatures around here will run in the 30s.

I do have a good idea of the impact of the air conditioning system on the miles / kWh. I picked up the vehicle at the end of May and have had the A/C on most of the time due to the extremely hot weather here in Central California. July was our hottest month and I averaged 3.53 mi / kwh (759 miles driven) as measured from wall to wheel using a power meter at the outlet and L1 charging. I would like to get an idea of what to expect in the winter.
 
The heater draws between 1 and 6 kW depending on how cold it is outside, how fast you're driving, and how hot you're trying to get the car. This results in a highly variable mi/kWh. For example, if it's 50 degrees outside, you're driving in city traffic, and you have the HVAC set to 65°, you'll use a lot less heater power than if it's 25 degrees outside, you're driving at highway speed, and you have the HVAC set to 75°. If you're a numbers geek, you can pretty easily use your driving speed and heater power consumption to estimate how much your range will be reduced (or mi/kWh impact).

My typical average efficiency is around 5.5 mi/kWh. In the summer without AC use, I get over 6. In the summer with AC use, I get around 5.5. In the winter without heat, I get around 5. In the winter with heat I get around 4.5. I usually only pre-condition if I'm plugged in, unless the temps are extreme. I am comfortable with the interior between 60 and 80 before I turn on the AC or heat, generally, but for short drives I'll tolerate more like 55-85. This is truly a case where your mileage may vary!!!

It's easy to minimize the impact of temperature on driving range by pre-conditioning when plugged in, dressing appropriate to the weather, and by adjusting your HVAC set temp to "less comfortable" to reduce the temperature differential from interior to exterior. Using the seat heaters when it's cold is MUCH more efficient than heating the whole cabin. If your hands are sensitive to cold, using driving gloves makes a huge difference in the cold as well. I have tinted my windows and leave them cracked when it's hot/dry, which helps to reduce the greenhouse effect while parked and also requires a lot less AC use when driving on a sunny day. If you want maximum range when it's hot, leave the AC off and the windows cracked about half an inch...you'll hardly effect the aerodynamics, but still get enough airflow to feel a noticeable improvement in comfort. If you want maximum range when it's cold, bundle up, use your seat heater, and keep a warm cup of something to drink on the drive.

Unfortunately, I haven't figured out how to use the heater without allowing the AC to turn on for defrost as necessary. That would be another way to improve range when using recirculating air in the cabin if it's not humid enough to fog up the windshield. It's not totally obvious when the AC pump is being used while you're driving, so this one is a bit tricky to understand so far.

Bryce
 
Bryce,

Thanks for the information. Are your numbers based on wall-to-wheel power consumption or on the car's usage numbers? I have no concern with a wall-to-wheel usage number of 3.5 mi/kWh or higher since all of my savings calculations are based on that number. Now that I have switched to an L2 Bosch EVSE, I am seeing better charging efficiency and my average wall-to-wheel usage number has risen to around 4 mi / kWh.

Dennis
 
I've noticed a 15 - 20% decrease in range (compared to its rated 82 mile range) during the winter when the temperature is in the 40's. I don't go out of my way to be super efficient. I turn on the cabin heater, heat warmers, defrost, headlights, etc. Whatever I need to drive safely and comfortably. The only concession I make is that I typically set the cabin temperature to 68 degrees. So I bundle up a little, but not enough to feel comfortable outside. I drive on the highway in to work (50 - 65 mph) and on side roads on the way back (40 mph average). My round trip commute is about 38 miles. I can usually make at least one and a half round trips on a full charge without a problem. The GOM typically shows a range between 70 - 76 miles in the winter whereas in summer, it typically shows 90 - 95 miles, sometimes more.
 
MrDRMorgan said:
Bryce,

Thanks for the information. Are your numbers based on wall-to-wheel power consumption or on the car's usage numbers? I have no concern with a wall-to-wheel usage number of 3.5 mi/kWh or higher since all of my savings calculations are based on that number. Now that I have switched to an L2 Bosch EVSE, I am seeing better charging efficiency and my average wall-to-wheel usage number has risen to around 4 mi / kWh.

Dennis

The numbers above are all the battery usage while driving (car's displayed mi/kWh), not wall to wheel. I charge at many different locations (Yay for infrastructure!) and not only would wall to wheels be very difficult for me to track, but also pre-conditioning energy use versus driving energy use is extremely variable for me. I've never used an ice scraper on the Spark EV windshield, I absolutely love that I no longer have to do this with the pre-conditioning feature, so if it's been frozen overnight I'll actually use more energy to pre-condition than I will just driving to work (short, downhill commute in). Other times it might be just as cold, but the windshield doesn't have frozen ice on it, so I wouldn't pre-condition. Just too much variability in my use!

Bryce
 
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